Having stayed elsewhere at hotels catering for international guests, Casona Los Caballeros was an experience of real Spain. It's a lovely historic manor house among the fields just outside Santillana del Mar. The room was fine, spacious and comfortable and clean, but not a non-smoking room as we had requested. The lady of the house who was on reception when we arrived spoke no English, but we managed to understand the basics of checking in, breakfast is here, the lounge is there, etc. Her husband who was in later and in the morning spoke reasonable English. Breakfast was also entirely Spanish - no cereals, no cheese and cold meat, just coffee, juice, bread and pastries. It was a lovely stay, great experience.